Little parcels of goodness

You cannot possibly go to Mussoorie and not eat Momos. I asked around town for the best place to go and there seemed to be a split in the local opinion. I very nearly went to the Rice Bowl but got coaxed into Kalsang by a friend who prefers the latter. The large Tibetan population in Mussoorie, and in other cities around, and on, the Northern ranges means that their delicious food has found its way into our hearts and stomachs. Tibetans have not had it easy. Driven out of their country by the Chinese, their integration into India, though they are largely welcome, has not been easy either. In fact just as we were leaving Kalsang we passed a protest march of locals demonstrating against a nearby Tibetan market.
Tibetan food is understated. At least the authentic dishes are. There is extensive use of broths, which is a great way to get the most of the limited ingredients you have. However, Tibetan food is greatly influenced by Chinese cuisine and also by Sino-Luthianvi food, as I discovered. Kalsang also has a few Thai inspired dishes on the menu. For someone like me who appears to know more about Tibetan food than he actually does, telling where authentic ends and influence starts is a difficult one. But you can tell Sino-Luthianvi influence quite easily by an overdose of everything. Sino-Luthianvi food is not Called Masala Chinese for nothing.


Kalsang

The place is family run, like most great eateries round the world and opened about 5 years ago. Kalsang, I was told by one of the boys who worked there, is a Tibetian name that is lucky for the family that runs the joint. May have been the name of a dead loved one - I didn't probe. The space is comfortable. From the collection of foreign currency pasted on one wall, it seems to be a popular tourist haunt. This could explain the extensive, east-influenced menu, even if not wholly authentic.

Mutton and Chicken Momos

I kept it simple, and authentic, I think. The Momos to the left are mutton and the others are chicken. The stuffing in both was meat, cabbage, garlic and onions. Sure there was other stuff. The the skill in making Momos is in the parceling. The stuffing is sealed in flour parcels and steamed. You can also have them fried. I eat a lot of Momos when I am up north and you can always tell the ones made by a Tibetan. There is only as much pastry as is needed and they are stuffed to the brim with meat. Momos made by non-native Momo eaters are quite heavy on the pastry. It's really is a skill - see how the ones on the left are so beautifully sealed off with a twirl? The dipping sauce could make Chuck Norris cry.

Devil's Chicken Momo

A friend ordered these little bastards, and God most certainly would not have approved. Sino-Luthianvi to the bone. But that's not what ruined it. It just did'nt work. With Momos less really is more. These devils were served up in a think, hot and sweet sauce with spring onions. The sauce took away from the Momos more than it lent. Bad deal for the Tibetan side. Again.