Back in London for bit, and it's good to be back. What really excites me about this city is that there is so much to do. There are always new aspects of the city's life to explore. While I was here during the summer, the Marylebone Farmers' Market was a weekend regular. It was just round the corner from where I lived.
Borough Market however, I never got around to going to. I might have missed Borough Market during the bountiful summer but as far as food's concerned there really isn't a bad season. If anything, winter here is a time to indulge and to get festively plump.
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| Borough Market, Borough, London. |
The market itself is decked up for the occasion. The fruit and vegetable stalls were to the brim with fantastic winter harvest. Turnips, parsnips, beet root and savoy cabbage. Dare to think beyond soups and there are unlimited possibilities. But I have to admit, a nice, hearty, chunky, winter soup would be on the top of my agenda. Maybe because of the snow and the sub-zero temperature.
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| Winter veg |
There was plenty of cheese on offer. From the continent and from nearer by. A nice strong blue I think would be the flavour of the season. But then I am partial to cheese that you can taste in your nose. What was great was that a lot of the local cheeses were unpasteurised, making them creamier than their more shelf-friendly cousins. The cold however, makes the cheese a little stiff. You need to bring it up to room temperature to get the creaminess back. I however, was more than happy walking around munching on a wedge of unpasteurised Stilton, called Stichelton. I first had a
Stichelton at St. John Restaurant. That one was from Neal's Yard.
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| The Welsh Caerphilly |
As for something I hadn't had before - the Caerphilly. A hard, crumbly, cow's, white cheese from Wales. A little nutty I thought, but quite similar to a mild Cheddar. Would go well along side some apple or on Welsh Rarebit. Rarebit is traditionally made with Cheddar.
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| The Italian connection |
There was a sizable Italian section serving up not just the Parmiggiano Reggiano and Mozzarella, but also some less known cheeses, a great selection of cold meats, which the Italians really know how to do, and even some sandwiches to go.
Fish is a year-round favourite at most farmers' markets. I finally got my first taste of welks, essentially Sea Snails. Cooked, and sprinkled with some vinegar and salt. Real meaty critters. Nice firm texture with good bite. Reminded me of some raw Limpets I ate while fishing near Edinburgh. Good times.
And there was an Oyster stall, which I couldn't keep away from.
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| Mid-season Oysters |
Native Oyster season lasts from September to April and Pacific Oysters are available all year round. There was a little banter with the man behind the stall as to how Oysters should be eaten. While the lemon, Tabasco, and red-wine vinegar and shallots mignonette are all good, I quite like them just the way they are. Without messing about with the natural ozoney saltiness. And if you are just going to get them down you as quickly as you possibly can, then don't bother with oysters at all. A couple of bites are necessary to get your money's worth (and the full flavour, of course). I like fondling them with my molars a bit more. The two shucked oysters on the left are Colchester Natives and the ones on the right are Rock Oysters. Rock oysters were brought in from the Pacific but have now made their way into the wild in this country. The Grey Squirrel of Oysters.
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| Pork pies |
No farmers' market is complete without a butcher, and from what I saw, Borough Market has four very fine ones, including a branch of the
Ginger Pig. Two of them not only have meat to go, but also cooked on the spot hot meals. Roast sandwiches to stews to curries. Not to forget all the traders selling meat products. From sausages, cured and preserved meats, to pies and pasties.
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| A pig, many ways |
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| Prepared lamb |
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| Farmed geese and pheasants at Furness |
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| Mallards and partridges |
With Christmas round the corner the displays were very well stocked with roasting joints and birds. There was a fantastic selection of game, farmed and wild. Pheasants, hare, rabbit, pigeon, duck, venison, wild boar, the works. I spent a lot of time just wandering around the displays admiring the craftsmanship of the butchers and the quality of the meat.
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| Mr. Porky |
Mr. Porky's smile is infectious. Made me chuckle even. Just as my eye caught sight of the pig's head on Furness' counter top, the thought of
Fergus Henderson's Warm Pig's Head made me salivate. It wasn't on the menu at his Smithfield restaurant, nor on the menu at Spitalfield. A Warm Pig's Head remains a supper to be had.
A bowl of fish soup, some welks, a wedge of Stilton, some oysters, a Malaysian chicken curry with jasmine rice and a glass of mulled wine later thought turned to dinner. I wasn't about to give up the chance of cooking with some of the fantastic ingredients at the market.
