Deep fried goats' brains with Green Sauce

The first time I ate brains I wasn't too impressed. I don't think they really taste of much on their own. A little like marrow. Fatty but not as concentrated with flavour. The texture is, well, exactly how you'd imagine it. But I'd try anything twice, and besides I've never cooked them myself. This recipe is from Fergus Henderson's Nose to Tail Eating.

The first thing about brains, I am surprised at how expensive they are. A 100 rupees for 3? Second, they have a smell. A smell even I am not too keen on. You need to rinse them in cold running water to get rid of small pieces of bone and other stuff that does not belong.

In a stock pot simmer for 15 minutes

• 1 onion, peeled and quartered.
• 1 carrot
• bay leaf
• celery stalk. I used the upper stalk and leaves as the celery cost me an absolute bomb and I didn't have the heart to let anything go to waste. The leaves impart an intense aroma. Very pleasant.
• a few pepper corns
• and about 6 cloves of garlic. Bruised
• You could add in any other fresh herbs. I recommend leaving the herbs whole otherwise they will stick to the brains and the brains will need picking.

Once the stock has simmered for 15 minutes put in the brains and cook gently for 6 minutes. I am not normally this anal about time, but as far as textures are concerned, mine was pretty perfect, so stick to Dr. Henderson's 6. The poaches takes away the pungent smell of the brains, and of course, pre-cooks them before the frying.

Fish out the poached brains and leave to cool. While the brains cool prepare these 3 bowls:

1. Plain flour. Seasoned with salt and pepper
2. 2 eggs whisked with 100mls of milk
3. breadcrumbs

Once cold separate the lobes of the brains. Introduce them to the 3 bowls in the same order as above, coating well, and then into a sauce pan of hot vegetable oil. The frying is very quick. Pull them out golden.

I had mine with Green sauce, another Henderson creation. It is finely chopped parsley, dill, mint, garlic, capers, crushed pepper and extra virgin olive oil. Wish I had some anchovies. Chopped anchovies was, I think, the ingredient that seals the deal on this sauce, and also the only ingredient I could not get my hands on. The anchovies were missed.

My opinion of brains hasn't changed much. I'd happily eat them, but I'd much rather cook them.